Lisbon – quick travel guide

Sunny hilly city full of charmy architecture and small cobbled tile alleyways leading from the sea below to panoramic views above.

Long ago, not many European tourists ventured west past Barcelona but that’s long changed. Today’s travelers are tired of overly-touristy (and expensive) destinations like Paris, London, Rome, etc. And have opted to venture further out west, east, and south in Europe.

Lisbon makes a great choice due to its sunny weather, English-literate population, charmy streets, thriving nightlife and restaurant scene, all capped off by sunny beachy vibes. And yes, it’s noticeably cheaper than all else of Western Europe. It’s no wonder many Californians and other beach-lovers have relocated to Lisbon (much to the locals’ demise).

I recommend 4-5 days to see everything here and also be able to do a day-trip to nearby towns. Lisbon is small enough to see in 3 days but has enough things and adventures to fill up a week if you have the time. Many people fall in love and never leave here.

Introduction to Lisbon:

Portuguese people speak great English in general. Even the 70 year old homeless guy speaks English.
They hate to be confused for Spanish. Especially unforgivable offense by other Europeans.
They have like a sweet red wine that’s tasty to them but an abomination to wine connoisseurs. Their white wine is generally considered good by everyone. Regardless, I recommend you try everything.

Where to stay:

Bairro Alto – preferably up top by the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, or at least within a block walk from it. This is my favorite lookout point (a must for first-timers). And the walk around here and up to here gives you fantastic city views and many great restaurant and bar options. Use a scooter if you don’t want to climb hills. Bottom of Bairro Alto or a few blocks over ain’t bad either. It’s close to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina which some people say is their favorite.
Chiado – right next to Bairro Alto and equally fun and desirable to be. Just know that you’re farther from the São Pedro lookout.
Rua de Sao Marcal – the area between Bairro Alto & Principe Real. Beautiful and calmer. Still lots of street life but not with a ton of people walking everywhere. This area is more desirable for locals or people who like being able to walk into restaurants, bars, and cafes without having to make a reservation beforehand. On my more recent trips in Lisbon, I end up around this area more often than not.
Cais do Sodre – by the water and surrounding hills north and to the side (by the bottom of Bairro Alto). This is basically the “party area”. Lots of youngsters running around drunk and partying in the endless rows of bars and clubs, which then spill out onto the street and on the way to McDonald’s late night. Don’t worry, there are classy bars for the chiller 30’s crowd as well. Cais do Sodre is also lively during the day but I don’t like it because it’s at the bottom of the hill. Going anywhere else always feels like an uphill climb. But it is indeed cheaper, close to the local city life, and conveniently near your late-night partying.
Principle Real – a nice area (can be super posh), still close to the busy local areas, and descends easily into the desirable Bairro Alto neighborhood. Still plenty to do but not the most desirable hip tourist areas to be, unless you like the super expensive places on the main street Avenida Liberdade. Good place to live.
Alfama – this is the castle/fortress area (opposite side of the city from Bairro Alto), and also has the beautiful Senhora do Monte lookout. The area isn’t as hip/popular as Bairro Alto but still very nice with bars, restaurants, and things to do. Definitely considered a quieter chiller area.
Alcantara – massive party area. I probably wouldn’t stay here as it seems far to walk to main tourist areas. But hey if you need to save money, maybe it’s cheaper? I don’t know.
Campo de Ourique – similar idea as Principle Real. Local neighborhood area that’s close to the prime tourist/restaurant/nightlife areas.
Avenida da Liberdade – the downtown area with big streets, big buildings, hotels, and commercial stuff. It’s not the charmy old town Lisbon area and therefore I don’t like it at all. But indeed, it’s not a long Uber ride to the touristy stuff. So I guess you could stay here but just know it’s not a hip walking neighborhood.

Wherever you decide, I recommend putting yourself on a hill. It gives you the best views (especially inspiring when walking home at night or when you just wanna hang out and smoke, chat, chill). Being on a hill is best since you can start your daily adventures by easily walking down the hill. Then late at night, you get an Uber home and the car drives you up the hill.

Hostels:

Safestay Lisbon – beautiful hostel with beautiful views. Big front patio. I loved the big dorm rooms with the giant balcony view of the city. The hostel has a great vibe that feels fun and social regardless if they’re full or vacant. Also it’s located right by my favorite lookout Mirador de Sao Pedro…always a joy to walk home every night.
Urban Garden Hostel – good for coworking (they have a big working area) but terrible for socializing. The common areas are dark and seems too much like an office space. Really doesn’t give you socializing vibes.
We Hate F Tourists – I didn’t stay here but my friend liked it. She felt the hostel and surrounding area was nice, and so was the staff and people there.

Lisbon has many great hostels. Don’t be shy to try new ones. As good vibes are everywhere in this city.

Neighborhoods & Walking areas:

Bairro Alto & Chiado – are the prime alternative hip cool neighborhoods with lots of cafes, bars, and restaurants. The main hilly street passing by Bairro Alto is the one with the iconic tram #28 that you see in many tourist photos. The typical tourist photos of Lisbon hilly streets, stairways, and trams are all here.
Praca do Comercio – nice big busy square down by the water. Come in morning and afternoon. Take photos and walk around. Go by the water and sit for food or cafe. Exploring more west if you want less people around you.
Cais do Sodre – and the surrounding areas has all the nightlife and late-night (or all-night) partying. It’s more for youngsters. The older/calmer folks might prefer something else. During the day, you can visit here to hangout by the water.
Alfama – hangout by the castle/fortress, Senhora do Monte lookout, and surrounding water areas. For some reason, this side of town is where the tuktuks are. I don’t see them anywhere else but here.
Belem – see the monastery, navigator statue, Torre de Belem castle, and also that colorful palace on the hill if you have time.
Ajuda – mostly a residential area where people live, not a tourist area. BUT along the water (starting from about Alcantara) are a long row of big clubs with lots of people. A good party option if you’re tired of the usual tiny spots in the more crowded areas of Lisbon. Music is played super loud so you can tell which clubs play what music.
Across the water – across the red bridge. I’ve never been and I suspect few tourists go. But it might be nice. Something to explore if you’ve seen everything already.

Basically…just start from Bairro Alto and walk down towards the water at Cais do Sodre. Then on another day, you go to the Alfama and castle area. And with an extra day, you go to Sintra. That’s good enough if you ask me. 🙂

Activities to do:

Old tourist trams:
- Classic way to explore Lisbon or if you’re really tight on time, take old tourist tram #28 which passes by many neighborhoods and historic old Lisbon areas with popular tourist stops. The whole ride is 48mins and the tram is cheap, so you can just pop on and off whenever you want.
- Link above also gives tips for other good trams. If your tram stop is full of people waiting, just walk to the next stop that isn’t so busy. Also watch out for pickpockets (who try and blend in with tourists).
Miradouros (“lookouts”) – check them out at both day and night. Can do coffee in the afternoon, drinks during sunset, or hangout with your own alcohol/weed in the evenings.
- Sao Pedro de Alcantara – my favorite, big and often has music events. Great view of the city below. You MUST GO here…afternoon, sunset, evening, night, late night. Can be too noisy/busy for some but I like that there’s tons of space so you aren’t walking all over each other.
- Santa Catarina – nice and cozy, has a view of the red bridge (that looks like the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco). Has a more local neighborhood vibe with fewer tourists. They close the front area around 23hr30 and then you’ll have to sit in the upper area behind the fence (so it’s less of a view).
- Senhora do Monte – high view of the city below and close to the castle. Much calmer here despite getting the tourist crowd. I really like this one too.
- More Lisbon lookouts here, I’m too lazy to list them all.
Castelo de Sao Jorge – nice castle with views of the city and water. Great for afternoon and sunset times. Can eat at the castle as well. Beware, many pickpockets operate here.
Sintra & the palace – you MUST do this! It’s beautiful and picturesque, probably my fav palace in the world. You may also learn about JK Rowling and her inspiration for the Harry Potter books.
Belem stuff – 3 things all near Belem area. Jeronimo’s Monastery, Padrão dos Descobrimentos navigator statue (with compass in front of it), and Torre de Belem tiny castle. You can go during the day when it’s hot. Or you can be like me and scooter there at night when there’s no one. Obviously, you can’t go into the monastery at night. Another thing….I noticed they only have the lights on during certain nights (I assume the weekends).
Architecture – Ponte 25 de Abril (looks like San Francisco’s Golden Gate bridge, designed by same engineer). I haven’t been on or across it. There’s also the elevator (Elevador de Santa Justa) by the same architect who did the Eiffel Tower.
MAAT electricity museum – by the water. It’s about electricity and technological/engineering stuff. I haven’t been but heard that it’s cool. The area around there is nice to checkout, easily fits on your trek to Belem.
Museu da Marioneta (“puppet musuem”) – haven’t been but some people like it. Can be done in an hour and you take some nice photos of some interesting stuff. I heard only like 2 of the puppets were scary.

Restaurants & Cafes:

Collect (Food Radio Records) – good burger restaurant and bar in a record store. Downstairs and upstairs with nice chill vibes. Right by the party street. You can start off your night here before changing to something more rowdy, or just spend your whole night here chatting with friends. Daytime has a more chill relaxed touristy vibe. Open walls so you can see people passing by.
Pharmacy Felicidade – nice restaurant that feels classy and casual at the same time. Good food and drinks, with a nice view. It’s right by the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. A great chill lookout for a cozy chat with friends, or cuddling making-out with your SO.
Praca das Flores (right at Jardim Fialho de Almeida garden park)- nice local square with good restaurants and cafes to choose from. It’s a chill refuge from the sun and tourists and easy enough to get a table outside without reservation.
Carvoaria Jacto – great (meat) food, wine, and good prices! I recommend a reservation.
SUD Lisboa – fancy restaurant with views of the bridge. Make a reservation and ask to sit outside.
Chinese Clandestino – aka the “hidden chinese restaurant”. I thought this was a lot of fun. Looks like an abandoned building and homeless home stairway from the outside. But knock on the door and the chinese person lets you into a restaurant that also looks abandoned inside with graffiti all over the walls. You can also smoke (cigarettes OR weed) inside the restaurant as you eat. And yeah, the food hits the spot…especially when you’re high. Don’t worry, the crowd is an eclectic mix of young street college kids and older couples on a fun date.
Time Out Market – a touristy food court with many little restaurants and eateries, also souvenir shops. Fun for family or group outing if you’re already in Cais do Sodre area and can’t decide on what/where to eat. Choosing one of the vendors by the water would also be nice as well.
Agora – delicious place with great food and service. Reservations highly recommended.
Frade dos Mares – great for modern seafood.
Cantinho das Gaveas – typical outdoor alleyway restaurant on the backstreet of Bairro Alto neighborhood. You can choose this one or any of the other ones nearby.
Pastel de nata – you have to try these delicious egg custard baked treats. The iconic original shop is Pasteis de Belem and the other famous one is Manteigaria. If you don’t know anything, these 2 will be the freshest and most delicious. Other shops can be good as well, but it’s a hit or miss.

There are so many great restaurants of all kinds of different vibes…outdoor seating on the square, outdoor seating on the narrow streets/stairs, small indoor intimate, fancy industrial place by the water.

Bars & Clubs:

Miradouro – nice outdoor bar right on my favorite Miradouro de Sao Pedro. Great for afternoon enjoying the city views. Beautiful place.
Foxtrot – really nice neighborhood bar that looks small from outside but much bigger inside. Cozy old wooden tables and nice decor. Highly recommended for the good vibes and fun decor.
Red Frog Speakeasy – didn’t go there but was recommended by the same person who took me to Foxtrot.
Skybar Lisboa by Seen – fancy vibes and views, sexy people and house music. Some people love it, others say it’s overrated and too pricey with long wait times. Great if you want sexy views and sexy people. Probably annoying if you wanted a chill bar with good prices/service.
Vino Vero – outdoor bar near the castle with nice local vibes. Can be full and difficult to get a table sometimes. Don’t worry, many other nice bars nearby as well.
Collect (Food Radio Records) – great burger restaurant and bar in a record store. Downstairs and upstairs with nice chill vibes. Right by the party street. You can start off your night here before changing to something more rowdy, or just spend your whole night here chatting with friends.
Lust in Rio – probably best club in Lisbon, happens everyday. Plays a mix of latin/reggaeton and techno/house. Hard to get in, go early like 10 or 11.
Urban – easier to get in than Lust in Rio but still nice vibe.
Lux – another “best club in Lisbon”. I think they play only electronic/techno/house music.
Ferroviario – by train station. It’s like a sexy upstairs restaurant with sort of water/rooftop views, bar vibes and DJ. Come earlier if you want food, later if you’re ok with just drinks.
Pink Street (Rua Cor de Rosa) – tons of bars and clubs here, you’ll see young and rowdy people everywhere and spilling out onto the streets. Walk around and take your pick. The ones too young to get into clubs or want to save money, will just drink on the streets.
Water clubs – all along the water from Cais do Sodre almost all the way to Santa Maria de Belem, you will see a ton of clubs. Just follow the loud music and pick the vibe you want. I never tried but a local friend tells me it’s kind of trashy.

In terms of bars, there are so many nice places. You must explore and find out about all kinds of cool ones.

In terms of clubs, the general areas are Cais do Sodre neighborhood stretching west along the water almost until the Torre de Belem tower, and then by the Santa Apolonia Ferroviaria train station. For big clubs, I recommend you have an idea in mind and know who’s playing and what kind of crowd is going. Might also help to be on a list. Be wary of racist experiences. I hear many big clubs refuse entry to colored people (e.g. African or Indian descent), or require a big $5000 VIP fee. Also that some of them will create a price on the spot from looking at you.

Miscellaneous tips:

Transportation:
- Public transpo – it’s great and cheap and easy, credit cards accepted. Use the metro or trams around town. Getting from the airport to the city is easy and cheap as well. Pop down to the metro and and take 1-2 trains to get to the city. Generally, you can pay with credit card for metro, but for buses and trams you need either cash or pass or local payment options.
- Rideshare – Uber, Bolt (my preference), or Free Now are cheap here. For going further places, prices may seem nicer if you have 3-4 people to share.
- Scooters – I also highly recommend scooters. They are higher-powered here making them super fun and easy to get around the views. Only downside is that Lisbon is so hilly you can’t climb hills with 2 people. But you can ride 2 people for sure on the flatter parts, the scooters here are stronger and also longer. As of 2022, I think Bird scooters are the best because of the better suspension (smoother ride on cobbled road) and engine strength (climbs hills better). I much prefer e-scooters over bike rentals for the Lisbon hills.
- Buses – take Flixbus or RedeExpressos to conveniently get around to different towns. FB is cheaper but RE has more times available.
- Rental cars – Prices here seem surprisingly cheap. This is highly recommended if you want to roadtrip along the coast with friends and stop at all the beach towns. Make sure you take pictures and videos of every part of the car so you don’t hit with damage scams. Also don’t leave stuff in the car as windows will be smashed and items stolen!
Weather – don’t come here when it’s too hot (Jul-Sep). Sure, the buildings may give you shade in the small streets but you’ll be way overheated walking up and down the hills.
Shipping services – try MailBoxes in Campo de Ourique. They are really nice/helpful, and speak English.
US Embassy – they don’t do same-day walk-in servers. You can try going there in person and they likely give you a contact to email. You email the contact explaining exactly your problem and what you need and they give you an appointment. Depending on your needs, determines how soon your appointment can be. Most situations have to wait a while but if you have a legit emergency, they may accommodate you sooner.
Moreira Barber – only tried a few barbershops but this is my favorite one. Truly amazing service and attention to detail. The barbers speak perfect English and will hook you up and take care of every little detail on your head. Go here for an amazing 5-star service! You will come out looking and feeling amazing. Easy to walk-in without reservation. (NOTE: I’ve been here couple times now and some cut better than others, but still great experience overall.)

Safety:

Lisbon is generally safe everywhere, but I have indeed found less savory areas.
Pink Street at late night on weekends is full of sketchy characters. And smell of human piss around every building corner. With that said, I don’t think anything would actually happen to you…but still.
Homeless area under the bridge by the Santa Apolonia Ferroviaria (train station). I would not walk around there or even go close to there on foot by the station.

Itineraries:

1-DAY:
- Start in Bairro Alto neighborhood at the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara (best panoramic viewpoint on west side). Enjoy view and get an idea of city layout. You can explore the steep slanted hill right next to it to take popular tourist photo of this hill tram.
- Then walk downhill (on Rua do Miserincordia & Rua do Alecrim street) passing Cais do Sodre neighborhood and Pink Street, and ending up at water. Then walk east along the water to Praca do Comercio square.
- One option from here is walk to Se de Lisboa cathedral then up to Castelo de Sao Jorge castle (paying & going inside), then to viewpoint Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte and back downhill to Elevador de Santa Justa (by Eiffel Tower architect) and explore this commercial area. Second option is skip cathedral and castle, visit Elevador and then Senhora do Monte viewpoint and take old tram #28 around town.
- If you have extra time, can come back down to Cais do Sodre and ride a scooter all the way to Torre de Belem around sunset or nighttime hours, seeing both the Belem tower and the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos monastery (only from outside). Or you could also take a car there and then walk back along the water.
- If you’re really tight on time, can just take old tourist tram #28 which passes by many neighborhoods and historic old Lisbon areas with popular tourist stops. The whole ride is 48mins and the tram is cheap, so you can just pop on and off whenever you want.
3-DAY:
- DAY 1 – After check-in, go straight to Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara (without getting distracted by anything else). From here you walk down to Praca do Comercio square. Stopping for tourist photos from my 1-DAY itinerary or eating anywhere you like. You can also go towards the Elevador de Santa Justa and eat there as well.
- DAY 2 – head to Sintra in the morning, explore the palace and Moorish architecture stuff. Come back later afternoon and stop by the Torre de Belem and/or Jeronimos Monastery (closes @ 6pm everyday). Then come back into the city for dinner around the Cais Do Sodre area.
- DAY 3 – Head to the Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte viewpoint, then the Castelo Sao Jorge castle, then explore towards the Alfama neighborhood and eat dinner there. Day 2 & 3 can be switched depending on weather or how you feel.

Nearby towns:

Sintra – beautiful little town with the picturesque castles and palace up the hill. Spend a day here taking beautiful photos. It’s an absolute must-see for first time Lisbon visitors.
Caiscais – popular beach town spot to visit from Lisbon. A local guy who lives here recommends not to spend a day or even 4 hours. It’s better as a dinner stop when coming back from Sintra. 2 restaurant options: Mar do Inferno (fancy restaurant), Fish Bay “Bahia do Peixe” (blue restaurant by the bay with nice view of city and beach). Checkout Casa da Guia; seaside commercial area with nice restaurants and shops alongside beautiful water view.
Carcavelos – many people say go here instead of Caiscais as it’s nicer.
Southern beach towns – highly recommended if you love beaches, sunsets, and chill beach-town vibes. Algarve, Albufeira, Faro, etc. You can train out or take a bus there. You can also rent a car with friends so you have absolute freedom to stop anywhere you wish.
Porto (up north) – definitely more picturesque and postcard-beautiful than Lisbon but boring if you spend too much time there. Porto can be done in 2 days, stay longer if you wanna hang around and “chill”. I much prefer Lisbon over Porto for sure but it is indeed super-beautiful.
Nazare – the famous surfing town with huge waves (10-30m depending on season).

Catarina’s Guide (cut-pasted)

Top things to do in Lisbon in 3 days or more
(Catarina’s perspective, last update August 2021):

Day 1

To enjoy the sunlight in the morning. Go to Belém by tram. Go to the top of Padrao dos Descobrimentos, and walk by the river. Very important to do here: there is the oldest pastry shop of Lisbon with “Pasteis de Belém” which translates as Cream Pastries. This is the best place to eat them. Try to find the end of the tables/building. It’s a labyrinth inside.
If you have time in Belem: check the new modern museum MAAT (even if only to check the architecture from outside – it’s lovely, by the river). Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (absolute Renaissance grandiose), Centro Cultural de Belém (check the permanent art exhibitions. Also modern theatre, performances but you can use the buffet for lunch in the garden) and my favourite Torre de Belém. All within walking distance in Belém.

Then get back to town for the afternoon and end of the day light.

Take the old tram (Eléctrico) N. 28, catch it in Estrela. The garden and church of Estrela are nice (it’s 10 min by uber from Belem) and go all the way till the end of the tram line. Watch out for pickpockets in the tram. Recommended stops: Miradouro St. Lucia. From here you can also climb to the Castelo (The Castle) but mainly for the view.
But the best is actually to take the stairs from the miradouro das Portas do Sol down and get lost is Alfama.
If you like tiles, do not miss the National Tile Museum. It’s one of the best museums in town.
By then you will be hungry and in love with the town. There are many fish restaurants in this area. Go for the more crowded places because the produce is fresh. This is also the place where you can listen to fado in the evening.

More traditional dinner option in Alfama: Casa da Tia Helena, Agulha no Palheiro, Taberna Sal Grosso

Day 2

In Baixa, get in the old Elevador de St. Justa and see the whole Baixa from the top. You can also access it from the top in Bairro Alto and walk down. Walk around Baixa, Rossio, Restauradores, you can go all the way down till Praça do Comércio (also known as Terreiro do Paço)

Eating option: In Rossio and Martin Moniz squares you have the oldest tea houses in Lisbon – worth going for home-made decadent cakes.

Get lost in Bairro Alto, the hip and trendy neighbourhood on the other hill in front of Castelo. Rua do Norte has very nice young designer shops which are also not expensive. Rua da Rosa has the Fábrica dos Chapeus for handmade hats. Principe Real garden is nice.
Enjoy the sunset at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara you can see the castle, the river…

Eating option with a view: Across the street there is the hipster terrace The insólito.

For drinks, next door: Decadente

For lunch or dinner: In the Calcada do Combro you have also the main Sea Me restaurant (the other one is a stall in the Time Out Market mentioned below) – for this one you need to reserve. The quality of the sea food is outstanding. More middle range price. A few steps after Sea Me there is Casa da India. It’s a traditional sea food Portuguese restaurant open till really late, loud and fast and chaotic. Just queue up and get seated. See below the menu suggestions. I really like it.

For drinks: BA WineBar Bairro Alto is excellent but very popular. Reserve.

“Miradouro de St. Catarina” a sightseeing spot for lunch but also great for end of the day.

Eating option with a view: on the right side my favourite terrace/restaurant: Noo bai. They have blankets if it gets too cold.

For lunch or dinner: Farmacia. It’s a great restaurant that makes traditional Portuguese dishes modern style – great for sharing. Also great terrace outside.

Just outside Bairro Alto you have Ascensor da Bica, a very old tram that goes all the way down. It is nice to go down by foot and take pictures of the side streets and then take the tram up again.

Eating option: At the bottom is the Time Out Market which is basically a food court made up of the best chefs in Lisbon. It’s in the old market of Lisbon, very very good quality food and wine for very affordable prices. Take a seat and explore what different people are eating, ask where they got it. You can stay here hours trying different things. Sea Me is my favourite but it’s the least Portuguese of them all 😉

Day 3

Go to the area of Expo 1998 if you like modern architecture by the river. It has a very good Aquarium called “Oceanário”. You can take the subway. Its great for chilling in the area next to the river on sunny days.
Any of the following:

If you want hipster shops and art and books go to LX Factory. In one of the buildings there is a rooftop bar/restaurant called Rio Maravilha. It gets busy at weekends, I recommend end of afternoon chill out.

If you want more art, from classical to contemporary, don’t miss the Museum Calouste Gulbenkian – the sculpture garden is really really nice too and they have a great lunch buffet too.

If you want more green and contemplative, Estufa Fria is a lovely very old botanical garden.

If you want more river take the normal ferry in Cais do Sodre to Cacilhas and enjoy the sunset over Lisbon in the bar

Drinking option: Ginjal Terrasse, Cais do Ginjal, 7 Tuesday-Thrusday 19.00-01-00, Friday and Saturday 19.00-04.00. 21 095 8715.

Eating option: Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal, 69/70, Cacilhas. Tuesday –Saturday 12.30- 22.30, Wednesday and Sunday: 12.30-16.00.

Or make a tour in the Tejo http://www.taguscruises.com/

Or do a traditional cooking workshop while on a sailing boat? http://www.sailingfoodies.com/

If you want to dance tango check the up to date online agenda: https://www.tangolx.com/ My favourites are: on Tuesday A Todo o Tango, on Wednesday the free open air tango na rua (check their facebook for weekly location); Friday: Milonga La Gata, it’s in a weird location, but it’s worth it and on Sunday the super traditional “A Barraca”.

If you want to go out disco dancing very late in the evening (literally till 9 am) in Lisbon, the place to be after midnight is Lux. It has a middle floor very nice to enjoy the crowd and the music. Before midnight, hang in the streets and bars of Bairro Alto. Its always very busy also in the weekdays.

Other things if you have one full day and it is sunny (days 4 and 5)

Go to Sintra (50km outside Lisbon) to the amazing Palácio da Pena on top of the hill. It was a summer palace and the queen really had an imagination… For more mystery and underground tunnels do a guided tour in Quinta da Regaleira – I prefer this one than the Palácio da Pena, but it’s hard to suggest between one and another.

Get the train to Estoril and Cascais and walk in the beach and in the old town. There is a very long pedestrial walk all along the beaches. For a great lunch or dinner of fresh seafood and not touristic at all try Bolina Restaurante. You will need to walk to get there but promise all it’s worth it.

Go to Óbidos (you need a full day)

For beach lovers go to Praia da Arrábida for the amazing nature around – you need a car. For public transport accessible beaches go to Costa da Caparica (it’s nice with a ferry crossing and then a small open train along the coast, there is also a faster way by bus and the highway, but this is less romantic). In Cascais and Estoril its beach all the way too.

Food you need to eat (portions are usually for 2 people, they say its not, but it is. Go for sharing unless there are options for half portions):

Arroz de marisco (sea food risotto – but then totally different)
Ameijoas a bulhao pato (clams with lots of garlic, coriander and olive oil – the sauce is to be eaten with bread)
Bacalhau (there are about 100 dishes made with codfish, most popular are: Bacalhau á Braz, Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, Bacalhau com Natas, Bacalhau no forno)
Sardinhas grelhadas (if and only if they are fresh and its their season. Best served with toasted bread and grilled green peppers).
Polvo (octopus) in any way: salad, grilled, etc.
There are a ton of vegan restaurants in Lisbon and most are quite good – check the HappyCow site for that. Some of them make vegan versions of the food mentioned here.

Note: when the meal starts they bring you olives, bread, butter, different spreads, sometimes regional small cheese, etc. What you don’t want you tell them immediately to remove. If they don’t bring any of the above but you want them, just ask for them. I love the small regional cheeses…

Deserts you need to try:

Arroz doce (only home-made!)
Any of the daily fresh cakes available – the more yellow they are (egg based) the more traditional they taste

Coffee translator (for Lisbon only, in Porto they have other words):

Bica = espresso (this is a tiny tiny cup and very bitter for most people, portuguese put in a ton of sugar)
Bica cheia = espresso but then the cup is filled with water till the top (more drinkable without sugar)
Americano = well, a bigger cup with a more watery coffee.
Pingado = espresso with a tiny bit of milk – still in tiny cup, equivalent to Macchiato
Meia de leite = small latte
Galao = big latte

Breakfast translator (most cafes have all this even if not on menu):

Torrada = very thick toast with butter on both sides – its decadent and nice
Meia- torrada = half the portion of the above
You can ask for butter only on one side if the whole thing is too disgusting = torrada com pouca manteiga
Pão = bread
Croissant = croissant
Com/sem queijo = with/without cheese
Com/sem fiambre = with/without ham
Doce = jam
Sumo de laranja natural = fresh orange juice
And a ridiculous amount of cakes you see on display which locals eat at breakfast and midday and any time really – EVERY DAY

If you ask me where I would want to eat today (August 2021)?

Sr. Vinho – informal, amazing wines and small bites. Marc is a fantastic sommelier that pairs your taste with the food. You can also have half glasses and spend hours and hours tasting delicious food and wine.
Prado (in Baixa more sophisticated and a bit noisy, a foreign perspective on Portuguese ingredients)
Fortaleza do Guincho – this is a Michelin star restaurant with a portuguese young chef. Formal but not pretentious. Its 10 min from Cascais by uber. You need to reserve well in advance. Book an early table (19:00) so you can get one of the window tables with an absolutely spectacular view.

A super special place to stay?

This is the house from my cousin. He does not live in Lisbon but he has a super apartment in Bairro Alto, with a tub in a balcony overseeing the town that he is renting. Its very luxurious (and expensive), sleeps 6.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/14564531

Nice listings found on the internet (I checked them and agree with descriptions)

Catarina’s Guide (cut-pasted)

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