Ilha Grande – quick travel guide

Undeveloped hippie beach town island. Raw nature with many beautiful beaches and other islands nearby.

The magic being the “undeveloped” part. Unlike nearby Ilhabela island which has fully-developed roads and cars, far more crowded…Ilha Grande has a jungle beach bum oasis vibe. Dirt roads, far less people, actually see locals walking around barefoot. And while it’s casual and bum-ey, you also wouldn’t be so out of place if you want to dress up a little and go to a nice restaurant. It’s a perfect all-purpose island. All ranges of people, ages, etc, will enjoy Ilha Grande.

Beaches have many varieties, as typical in Brazil. Big space, little space, fish in water, rocks for beauty and elevated views, trees for shade, can walk to nearby ones, or hike/ferry to far beautiful ones. Plenty food options, from traditional to fancy. Only thing Ilha Grande doesn’t have is the “posh” vibe, and I like it that way! Non-pretentious, chill, beautiful, real.

5-7 days is a good start considering the effort to get here, 3-4 days can be minimum (but you’ll cry when you leave). Do I see it being a place you could stay for months and months? Probably not because of how far the better beaches are from town. A true beach lover would prefer nicer beaches within 15mins walk. But indeed, it has many things and a nice vibe.

Where to stay:

• Abraao:
  • Main busiest town on the island. Lively at day and night. Many restaurants, shops, bars. Many boat tours and hikes from here. Dirt or uneven walking paths without clear signage, add 2-3mins walk time to GoogleMaps estimates.
  • Most convenient – being close to busiest part of town (specifically the block by Igreja de São Sebastião church and Cais Turístico tourist pier). Anywhere around here would have tons of food and shops. Also much easier to reach with luggage from boat pier. Don’t stay exactly in here…probably too crowded, and accommodations more expensive while having less space. Anywhere 5-10mins walk from here is great for popping in-and-out throughout your day.
  • Elevated views – the town climbs uphill as you go away from the water. Great for accommodations with views of the water or more jungle oasis, but annoying 12min walk uphill everyday. Not recommended for unfit, old people, or those with lots of luggage.
• Other places – there are numerous other places around the island, that are beautiful and have private beaches. Incredible for sure, but I don’t know them. Research and see what you find. Or stay the first days in Abraao then choose another after you explore the island.
  • Praia de Bananal Grande – nice accommodations around this quieter beach area. Same idea with Praia de Matariz.
  • Pousada Cabanas Paraiso – nice isolated “paradise” with private beach. Make sure you check all bad reviews.
  • Paraíso Azul Retiro

Hostels & Hotels:

• Hospedagem ocean view – cheap and has beach view, kinda dirty cramped party vibe with lots of people talking. Bit of annoying walk up the hill to get to. Some people hated this climb.
• Pousada Mãe Natureza – nice, clean, good AC, adequate space in dorms, friendly staff, included free breakfast. Good social vibe, made friends here.
• Hostel Papagaio – expensive but really nice, top ratings.
• Hostel Ilha Grande – nice and good ratings, but also seems cramped from photos.
• Lila Limao Hostel – good reviews. Not as social.
• Che Lagarto Hostel – typical tourist-filled party place. Nice place on the water is the only nice point. Overpriced (and makes you pay for everything), not so clean, unhelpful staff, loud music all day, parties all night. No AC so it’s hot, but you can’t open windows due to loud music and mosquitos. Feels like long walk from town, hard to drag luggage here through the beach. I suggest visit for parties but don’t stay here.

My biggest thing would be whether or not you have control of the AC. AC greatly provides comfort from the heat, while also preventing mosquitos from your room. Size, cleanliness, breakfast would be the next factors.

Neighborhoods, walking areas, public squares:

• Abraao – I’d say you have 4 main areas to explore around town.
  • Igreja de São Sebastião – church and tourist pier areas are busiest parts of town with many shops, restaurants, tour shops, and people walking around.
  • Local park & beach – Praça Cândido Mendes & Praia de Abraao, are the local areas. Still close to tourist area, but also close to the hiking trails and Praia Preta (my favorite close beach). More peaceful and green.
    • Path to Praia Preto – small hike to Praia Preto is a jungle area with benches and lookouts along the water. Nice place to relax and escape the town noise, while still being right next to it. If you feel up to it, hike in further into the jungle.
  • Che Legarto Hostel – the nightlife area at night, everyone gravitates there after midnight. During the day is nice if you want to eat with a view on the water, or hike 10mins more to Abraaozinho beach. Around here or the sand leading up to here is also where people sit for sunset.

Activities to do:

• Beaches, bridges, water-points:
  • Abraao & North – easiest areas to reach from Abraao…by walk, short ferry, or water bike from adjacent beach. Easy means more people, so not the most beautiful or peaceful.
    • Praia do Abraao – generally full of boats so not recommended to get in the water, but north side is where some people get in the water or play on the sand. South side, maybe some people sit on the sand for sunset.
    • Praia Preta* – named after the black sand. IMO the nicest beach you can easily reach on foot from Abraao (15mins walk). Nice little hike to get there through little forest elevated on the rocks with good nature views. Middle and south part has a nice river outlet…many families with kids here, nice rocks for photos.
      • North end (called “Praia do Galego“) is more peaceful and tranquil. Beautiful relaxing vibe and so conveniently close to town. Lots of shade. I prefer this one over Abraozinho…easier to reach and unique landscape with black sand, rocks, river outlet, quiet vibe at north end.
    • Praia do Abraozinho – the other nice easy beach walkable from Abraao (20m). Less crowded but still plenty of people. Lots of trees for shade. Nice relaxing vibe. Getting here is a little hike through the jungle but not difficult. I love that there’s a cheap ferry to save you the 20m walk back to Abraao.
      • You’ll pass by 3 other beaches (Praia da Julia, Praia Comprida, Praia da Crena). All of them small and nice enough but can easily get crowded. Praia da Crena has restaurants. Praia de Guaxuma is next door and also nice.
      • Praia de Morcego beaches – along with Ilha de Morcegos island, all seems private property. Maybe there’s an accommodation you rent around here to access it.
    • Praia da Feiticeira – 1hr hike from Abraao passing Feiticeira waterfall. Very tiny beach at high tide (afternoon) but few people. Calm water with debris, some rocks, kiosks selling drinks/snacks. Nice enough to chill (if you don’t mind annoying people and boats playing music, but not worth the hike itself. I hear there’s snorkeling here but didn’t try. Can hike back to town but best thing here is the boat ferry. You can take cheap ferry back to Abraao or boat tour that ends at Abraao. This beach is outer part of Saco do Ceu and has boats to take you inside.
      • Praia de Iguaçu – magical beautiful beach with clear water, white sand. 2hr hike time from Abraao, complicated (especially if rained recently) and requires good shape. Furthest beach on same hike trail that goes to Feiticeira waterfall. No taxi boats here. Beware of snakes and aggressive dogs from private mansion.
      • Praia de Camiranga – nice all-purpose beach, warm calm beautiful waters, never crowded. Small river outlet in middle, rocks on sides, little pier to jump off into the water, and restaurant. Often used as bonus or alt stop on boat tours. Located on T02 hiking trail (2hrs from Abraao), connecting aqueduct to Saco do Ceu.
    • Saco do Ceu – calm little bay area with little beaches and fancy mansions all around, fancy tour boats sitting in water. Very peaceful. Enjoy little beaches, stop for restaurants around Praia do Saco do Ceu, jump from your boat and see starfish around Praia da Caravela to Enseada das Estrelas.
      • Praia de Fora – common food stop for boat tour, at mouth of the little bay. Has restaurant and boat dock. Best part is south end with rocks far out in water (nice photo ops), and big river outlet to cross to Pereque. Peaceful waves to relax, not much else to see or do. I enjoyed very much.
        • Praia do Pereque – nice beach next to escape to if Fora is too crowded. Fun to cross the river regardless and look at Pereque beach through the trees.
      • Lagoa Secreta – not on GoogleMaps, it’s the lagoon on other side of Praia do Jacinto. Just a quiet stop on rocks by the water.
  • Northeast & Southeast – slightly further east from Abraao and slightly more effort, these are the most beautiful beaches easily reached by boat, car, or hike.
    • Praia de Palmas – long white sand beach, lush tropical vegetation, crystal waters. Strong waves. Easy boat taxi from Abraao. Hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, and fishing. Several restaurants and bars.
    • Praia do Pouso – common ferry stop where people hike to Lopes Mendes beach. But it’s actually a nice peaceful beach with nice restaurant on the floating pier. Peaceful even with the ferries coming by. Nice little rope swing for IG photos. 2 nice little beaches on south end, Praia de Itaoca & Praia de Itaoquinha.
      • Praia do Mangue – walk through the trees from north side of Pouso and you’ll end up here. Nice beach, calm water, good families.
      • Praia da Aroeira – Googlemaps review says accessed via hike, has seahorses. Has security guard saying it’s a private beach when it’s actually public. Praia de Arrecifes is another wannabe private beach.
    • Praia de Castelhanos – small cove style beach.
      • Praia de Jurubá – don’t know, looks nice.
      • Ponta de Castelhanos – I don’t know about it.
    • Praia de Lopes Mendes** – super long beach, easily 30min walk across. West end has entry point, picturesque rocks, lots of people, lifeguards. East is quiet/nobody. Absolutely beautiful, crystal clear water with fine soft sand that squeaks as you walk on it. Most popular on IG for its beauty and easy access. Beware of waves, my friend had to be saved by a lifeguard. 2-3hr hike from Abraao, or ferry to Pouso beach then 20min hike.
      • Praia de Santo Antônio** – absolute favorite of mine. Magical little intimate beach with many landscape features. Hike trail leads from mountain jungle down past river outlet at back, into beautiful waters with rocks all around. Right side is big slab of rock mountain. Left side has big rocks to climb for elevated views. Can climb around left side to see Lopes Mendes beach from afar. Best of all, almost nobody here. 25min hike from Pouso.
    • Praia de Dois Rios* – incredibly beautiful beach and almost nobody there. Seems most people don’t go because of the effort to get here. 20mins drive from Abraao, or 2hr hike. Can bike but it’s 35min uphill, 10mins downhill. Hike can be boring, just trees whole time but is a road and much easier than hike to Lopes Mendes. Very muddy if it rains. Can take ferry boat back (last one at 16:30). Restaurant nearby, huge river pool by road, viewpoint at south end, hiking trail to Caxadaco. People say Dois Rios is much better than Lopes Mendes. Must go, just you and nature.
      • Praia Do Caxadaço – beautiful little beach with crystal water and rocks to climb up for elevated views (or jump from), surrounded by lush forest. Only probably is it’s way overcrowded, being a common boat tour stop.
  • Northwest – farther west from Abraao.
    • Praia de Japariz – little beach that sounds nice, but overcrowded with many boats doing food stop. Kind of a scam considering it’s the last stop, they could have brought you back to Abraao to eat. Instead, you choose from all overpriced restaurants. If you want your food cooked faster, order from your boat. If you chose an accommodation here, there are some nice beaches nearby.
      • Praia do Funil – tiny beach poking out of the woods, empty and untouched by man. Quick walk from Japariz.
      • Praia do Jacinto – just north outside of the Saco do Ceu bay. Small beach with rocks, broken glass, jellyfish, no shade, also disappears at high tide. Doesn’t sound good.
    • Praia de Freguesia – nice beach with trees all around, some rocks, pier for jumping off, historic church nearby. Common stop for boat tours in this direction, can be busy. But beautiful between the intervals of boats unloading tons of people.
      • Lagoa Azul – common snorkel stop, beautiful strip of sand between the islands. Fish, turtles, trees, clear water paradise. Deep water throughout.
      • Praia dos Macacos – (near Lagoa Azul) nice beach if you go before the boat stops in high season.
      • Praia de Grumixama – very beautiful beach with clear water, and fine white sand. Can’t miss. It’s so close. Praia de Baixo also nextdoor.
    • Praia de Baleia – formerly deserted beach but now becoming a popular boat stop. Nice beach with clear sheltered water. Praia de Bananal nearby with hiking trail. Can walk through island to reach many beaches.
    • Praia de Matariz – tiny calm beach, no waves, mangroves, rock wall, some snorkeling, boat pier. Looks like tiny village with accommodations here.
    • Passaterra – typical boat tour lunch stop. Not a favorite. Praia de Maguaraquissaba just next door.
      • Praia Aripeba – beautiful stop on the Volta Ilha tours. Not much sand for a beach, but crystal clear waters surrounded by trees and rocks, fish in the water for nice snorkeling. Can get crowded with many boats.
      • Pinguino – shipwreck scuba diving spot.
      • Marinheiro – small nature oasis. Green waters, starfish and turtles in the water. Some private accommodations around here.
      • Praia da Tapera & Sitio Forte – overnight anchoring sites, there’s a floating restaurant “Lele“.
      • Praia de Ubatuba – calm clear water, some houses for rent. Common hangout for those anchoring overnight.
      • Ponta Grossa do Sítio Forte – scuba diving spot.
  • West & Southwest – farthest and least visited beaches, no roads, only long boat tours.
    • Praia de Araçatiba – main beach town of west area. Has accommodations, restaurants (overpriced), bars. Lovely calm beach surrounded by nature, greenery, rocks, clear water, fish, turtles, snorkeling. Hike trails to Longa and Proveta beaches, Pico do Urubu viewpoint. Awesome spot to spend some days. Cute little Praia de Araçatibinha just nextdoor.
      • Praia Longa – small beach with clean or dirty water depending on season and boat traffic. Has hike trails to here.
      • Lagoa Verde – common snorkel stop for boat tours. Can see fish, turtle, squid, and many people. Come early before boat tours for maximum enjoyment. Can chill among rocks in water of varying depths.
      • Praia da Cachoeira – deserted beach with bar, rough deep water, snorkeling, can see big turtles.
      • Praia Vermelha – clean quiet nature beach. Quiet fisherman town with accommodations, boat ferries, hike trails, fast access to other places. Praia Itaguacu nearby is a beautiful magical little quiet beach with rocks and great snorkeling.
      • Gruta do Acaia (cave) – cool cave with water inside that lights up green on sunny days. Common boat tour stop.
    • Praia de Provetá – nice, lots of fish by the rocks. Has hiking trail from Provetá to Araçatiba (also boats from there) and Aventureiro.
      • Praia dos Meros** – one of most beautiful beaches and live corals, crystal clear waters. Fish, turtles, rich marine life. Perfect for snorkeling and diving. Boat tours come here, covered in “Volta a Ilha”. Ilha dos Meros island nearby.
    • Praia de Parnaioca** – one of top fav absolute best beaches on IG. Huge, clean water, beautiful, wild, natural, unspoiled, nobody here, nothing around. Fresh water lake running along the sand, leading to small waterfall. Good snorkeling on the ends. Hike trail to Mirante de Parnaioca viewpoint. Not a common stop, only more expensive boat tours go here.
      • Praia do Aventureiro** – another best beautiful beach with elevated viewpoints, known for 90-degree angled palm trees. Only the Volta Ilha (full round) boat tours stop here, or kayak tour.
      • Praia do Demo – another paradise beach. Requires authorization to enter, have to register at the CIT at the city hall on Anil beach in Angra before boarding! There’s a campsite by here. Mirante do Espia viewpoint on south end.
      • Praia do Leste – beautiful wild beach with 2 lakes on the end. Part of Praia do Sul Biological Reserve and prohibited access. I think you can only reach by boat.
• Hikes (viewpoints, sunsets):
  • Praia Feiticeira* – easiest “long” hike from town. 1hr hike from north point of Abraao town to Praia Feiticeira beach passing by Ruínas do Lazareto ruins and Cachoeira da Feiticeira waterfall. Walk towards Praia Preta and you’ll see helpful signs and maps. Pleasant hike with some nice nice views. From Feiticeira beach, you can hike back or take direct boat back or Saco do Ceu boat tour which ends at Abraao.
  • Saco do Ceu – longer hike from Abraao and goes past Feiticeira.
  • Pico do Papagaio – (“parrot beak”). Popular big hike and highest reachable point. Long hard wild hike with venemous snakes along the way. You can do it yourself, but I’d recommend a guide with area knowledge to maximize safety and enjoyment (bringing attention to interesting things). Some people go at night to catch 5:40am sunrise. Bring food, snacks, flashlight. Takes ~3hrs to get up.
  • Praia de Dois Rios – 2hr hike from Abraao, longer if stopping by natural river pool near the road. Road very muddy if it rains. Can take ferry boat back (last one at 16:30).
  • Abraao to Lopes Mendes – tips for full hike 3hrs. Can take the split instead to Santo Antonio. Shorter version is take ferry to Pousa, then hike from Pousa. Bring snacks.
  • highest point hike – both hikes have trail signs in the city
  • Dois Rios to Cachadaxo beach
  • Araçatiba to Proveta and Longa beaches
• Parks, gardens, green spaces:
  • Praca Candido Mendes – like a green park with grass, trees, birds, playground, outdoor calisthenics gym. People relaxing, playing futbol and guitar, sitting on benches and chatting. Lush jungle greenery wrapped around houses and surrounding cliffs. Beach and sand across the street.
• Buildings & architecture:
  • None really, except some nice mansions around private beaches. Or the ruins and aqueduct. Or cute colorful accommodations on back streets in Abraao.
• Arts, museums, culture:
  • Any of this sorta thing would be around the tourist pier.
• Markets, shopping:
  • Shops are everywhere but most of them are around the tourist pier.
• Tours, activities, rentals:
  • Multi-destination tours – see more places in one tour, but often brings you at same time with many other crowds, so it’s less enjoyable and peaceful. Tours to north and east sides of island are shorter easier, therefore less expensive but more crowded.
    • Volta Ilha (full round)* – Caxadaco, Parnaioca, Aventureiro, Meros, lunch stop. Most expensive and longest tour since it goes around the whole island. Most beautiful beaches and fewer people than other stops (due to cost). Worth it IMO.
    • Meia Volta (half round) – Lagoa Azul, Lagoa Verde, Amor, Feiticeira, lunch stop. Only visits top side of island away from open sea. The 2 lagoons are great snorkel spots, but beach stops are nothing special (Feiticeira you’ll likely hike to already). Most popular tour because cheap price, covers multiple stops & activities, shorter time. But it’s so crowded, I recommend doing the 2 lagoons separately or other tours for better beaches. My friend saw dolphins on this tour.
    • Super Sul* – Jorge Greco, Dois Rios, Caxadaco, Lopes Mendes. Covers beautiful beaches and one island on southeast end. I prefer tour without lunch stop, just eat in town for better price. Or you can hike to these, or take boat ferry to one and spend all day to really enjoy. Tours cancel if bad sailing conditions.
    • Ilhas Paradisiacas – Dentista, Piedade, Botinas, Cataguas, lunch stop. I’m not sure how good it is. (Botinas islands is an in the water stop, close to Angra dos Reis island.)
    • Gruta do Acaia – Gruta do Acaia, Lagoa Verde, Lagoa Azul, Aripeba, lunch stop. Good option for natural-lit cave and snorkeling. I imagine the stops are crowded.
    • Saco do Ceu – covers multiple spots in Saco do Ceu bay. Better option is morning hike to Feiticeira beach and take 2pm tour from there for cheaper price, it’s more peaceful since it’s at different hours from usual tours. The stops are nice but nothing magical, but you can’t complain for the price and peace of few people.
    • Lancha Privada – “private boat”. Sounds expensive but honestly, it’s really worth it. Going to all the most beautiful stops on your own timeline, and speedboat. Cheaper with your own group of friends.
  • Single destination boat tours – have more time to actually enjoy places.
    • Lopes Mendes* – great option, cheap price, very long beautiful beach! Ferry drops you at Pouso, where you hike 20min to Lopes Mendes. Stay several hours and hike back to Pouso for return ferry. To see all, hike 25min instead to Praia de Santo Antônio and then come back to Lopes Mendes. Then come back to Pouso early to explore Mangues while you wait for your ferry.
    • Lagoa Azul – cheap tour for Lagoa Azul (popular snorkel spot) and nearby beaches.
  • Ferry boats – technically not boat tours. They only go from one place to another, but still has feeling of sitting in boat and passing sights. No need pre-book, just show up at beach during working hours and buy ticket. Many people hike to beaches, then take ferry back.
    • Abraaozinho to Abraao –
    • Feiticeira to Abraao –
    • Pouso to Abraao –
    • there’s many more throughout the island.
  • Water activities:
    • Polynesian canoe
    • Beach bike
    • Rentals – kayak, snorkel, fins, bikes, go pro.

Restaurants & Cafes:

• Restaurante D gustte – traditional style non-fancy restaurant, big portions, good taste. Big menu, but no veg options.
• water side restaurants – go around Che Legarto area for nice restaurants elevated on the water.

Bars, clubs, and nightlife:

• Che Legarto Hostel – go around this area at night (by the water) for the young sexy people loud music and clubbing area. It may look dead even at midnight, but crowd pours in 1-1:30am and 2:30am is full on party.

Miscellaneous tips:

• Brasil – quick travel guide
• Transportation:
  • Getting to & from Ilha Grande:
    • Most people come from either Sao Paulo (west) or Rio de Janeiro (east). If coming from SP direction, you’ll take a bus to Angra dos Reis and then ferry from there to Abraao. If from RJ direction, you’ll take a bus to Mangaritiba and then ferry to Abraao. If traveling as 2 or more people, it’s far less hassle and even more cost effective to book a private transfer. Or at least share a 99taxi car to the ferry port.
  • Boats – Ilha Grande is NOT a developed island. So you’ll use a bit of boat ferries to get around. That and some hiking.

Itinerary:

• DAY 1 – after checkin, head to a nearby beach of either Praia de Abraaozinho or Praia Preta (my pref). After sunset or whenever you like, head back to town to eat. Eat in town if you want something cheaper, or go to Che Largarto Hostel area to eat by the water. Then start shopping around for a boat tour. Prices are same everywhere, but you might be able to negotiate cheaper if in a group. Hang around town at night, eating and enjoying. Sleep in well to rest after your travels.
• DAY 2 – hike to Lopes Mendes, hike all the way or take ferry to Pouso to save time. Then hike to Lopes Mendes, or stop by Santo Antonio first. By now you should have set up a boat tour for tomorrow, and maybe even found friends to take it with (and negotiate for cheaper price). Sleep early to wake up for boat tour tomorrow.
• DAY 3 – boat tour day. Do the Volta Ilha (full round) boat tour to see the most beautiful beaches. Or do Gruta do Acaia to see cave and blue/green lagoons for snorkeling. Or just direct boat ferry to one of the prettier beaches. At night, you can do some bars/clubs with the friends you’ve been making.
• DAY 4 – do a hike. Can be easy 1hr hike to Feiticeira beach and from there take a boat ferry back to town or a quick boat tour of Saco do Ceu which then drops you off in Abraao. Or medium hike to Dois Rios. Or hard hike to Pico do Papagaio. Or a quick boat tour of the lagoons if you want to snorkel. Or if you’re too tired after a night out, can simply sleep in and then visit a beach or do some sunset kayak/canoo. As you wish.
• Do more activities if you’re still here, or can also move to a different accommodation in another part of the island.

Nearby towns:

• Paraty or Trindade – great option if you haven’t passed through them already.

Unfiltered notes:

• 4 Activities You Cannot Miss at Ilha Grande – YouTube (Horizon Hugo)