Small city with a nice vibrant old town, many small streets and alleyways. Also more history here than in Samarkand. Feels like the Uzbekistan version of Istanbul.
Bukhara is a great place to be. Feels more local and authentic than Samarkand, also more history than Samarkand. The main open spaces are packed tighter together and feel much less commercial than in Samarkand. Everything is closer together and much more walkable, you won’t even need a Yandex. So definitely, Bukhara will feel more fun. And also, it’s cheaper here.
2-3 days is a good amount to enjoy.
Where to stay:
- Old town – this makes the most sense since that’s where you’ll want to spend your time. Hanging around the vibrant old town and visiting historical sites.
Hostels:
- I didn’t try any.
- Also the hotels are pretty nice here and cheap.
Neighborhoods & Walking areas:
- Old town center – go by the water (Lyab-i Hauz lake) and the Khoja Nasreddin statue. From here you’re surrounded by a bunch of historical sites. Explore whichever direction you wish. Or head to the next 2 recommended sub-centers…
- Ulugʻbek madrasasi & Bolo Hauz Mosque – go from the old town over to these 2 places. Along the way, you will see the other important sites.
- Chor Minor – go from the old town center to the Chor Minor.
Yes, you can read online of many guides listing all the must-see places but in my opinion, this really isn’t necessary. Just walk past the places I listed above and you’ll pass all the others along the way.
Activities to do:
- Historical sites:
- Magoki Attori Mosque – heard the outside was more interesting. Inside was just carpets and not worth the entry.
- Old city of Bukhara & Kalon Minaret – nice architecture
- Ark of Bukhara – the inside was mostly a letdown, just tourist shops everywhere (or maybe that’s how it really was in the old days). The best part is probably the roof where you walk around the edges with views over the city.
- Buildings & architecture:
- Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah – nice to walk through, but looks similar to any other
- Kukaldosh Madrasah – nice to walk through, but looks similar to any other
- Toqi Telpakfurushon – nice architecture inside
- Ulugʻbek madrasasi – nice architecture
- Mir-i-Arab Madrasa – can only be seen from outside
- Parks, gardens, green spaces –
- Arts & museums –
- Sunset views – people suggest the “Chashmai Mirob” cafe but please do not eat or order any drinks here. Or order but don’t consume. It’s an absolutely horrible restaurant with horrible services and appalling practices. They served us juice from a bottle and then we caught the staff drinking directly from that bottle with their mouths. Absolutely gross. I went on GoogleMaps to read the reviews, and sure enough there were many horrible ones.
Be careful of random shopkeepers trying to charge you to enter free sites. They’ll just pop out of their shop with a smile (as you walk through the building) and say you have to pay. If you don’t see an official “KASSA” ticket box, ignore them! Or take a photo of them and report them. Also look at the official price sheets so you know you’re not being scammed. Or wait until other Uzbek people come in and see how much they pay.
Restaurants & Cafes:
- Joy chaikhana lounge – this place must be amazingly good or something. Reviews say it has good food, good service, live music, and nice ambiance/decor. It’s always booked out. You need to make a reservation 2-3 days ahead of time.
- Ahvan – amazing restaurant with incredible food, perfect service, live piano player, and absolutely beautiful decor. We were lucky to get a table for 4 even without reservation.
- Chalet – good food, good service, live music, and a bonus…many street puppies and kittens playing about throughout the restaurant. I like this is a lunch or late night place when you want to sit outside and enjoy the fresh air (and people watching).
- Old Bukhara – crappy food, crappy service. But if you’re lucky…you might be able to sit on the nice terrace with the view.
- Chashmai Mirob – nice terrace view but don’t eat or drink anything from here!!!!!
Bars & Clubs:
- Z Club – I didn’t go but read online it’s the best place to go?
Miscellaneous tips:
- General travel tips for Uzbekistan.
- Bird symbol – you may notice many bird symbols around the city. It’s the symbol of Bukhara and can be found as statues on top of buildings, or in souvenirs such as those bird-shaped scissors.
- Hotel Yasmin – I heard this was a good place for great plov. (You have to go late morning or early afternoon.)
Nearby towns:
- Samarkand** –
- Khiva** – if you have days to push on further. This place is definitely worth the extra trek to get there!
Unfiltered notes: