Ninh Binh – quick travel guide

Known as “Ha Long Bay on land”, northern countryside where you take rowboat tours down the river, passing lotus fields in between big rock mountains with birds (and occasionally endangered langur monkeys).

One of Vietnam’s top destinations (and my favorite tourist destination). Beautiful nature and relaxing peaceful vibes.

Beautiful, but not loud crazy crowded tourist vibes. A perfect escape from Vietnam’s noisier destinations. Although you can see Ninh Binh’s most popular highlights in a day tour, it’s a grave mistake not to put at least 2 nights here. It’s such a beautiful and spiritual escape from the rest of Vietnam’s noisier destinations.

I love that it’s actually real nature beauty. And IMO even more beautiful than Ha Long Bay, especially during bad weather (the clouds adding to the mysterious atmosphere whereas Ha Long Bay looks sad/dull with clouds). If you come during lotus bloom season (May-Jul), you’ll see all the lotus flowers in the water giving a colorful spring/summer look just like the yellow flowers photo you saw at the travel agencies. Regardless, Ninh Binh has magical beauty no matter the weather.

2 days for the minimum, 3 to really relax and recharge your soul. Also know that a place like this, it definitely affects where you stay. As different properties have vastly different views of Ninh Binh. Some feel like just a cute outdoor garden. Others have a massive view of the water, trees, and surrounding mountains…basically a mini Ninh Binh right in their back (or front) yard.

Where to stay:

• Hoa Lu Old Town – whatever you do, please pleeeeease do not stay in town center. It’s so tempting because that’s where the most vibrant city part is, lots of food and shops, beautiful lights and temples in the water, and the lanterns at night. But Ninh Binh is special because of the nature areas. So stay in Nature. and the old town is pretty
• Tam Coc – area around the lake where the Tam Coc boats start and end. There are many good reasons to be here. First off, it’s like a mini-city center in its own right. Lots of restaurants and shops, and semi-picturesque water point (although nowhere near as big and pretty as Hoa Lu Old Town area)
• Trang An River –
• Stay near either the Trang An river or the Tam Coc river. Basically, you want to be in the beautiful nature part of Ninh Binh, not the boring/uneventful city part. Trust me and thank me later.

The place you stay at will most definitely affect your experience of Ninh Binh. I definitely recommend staying in a more isolated nature place rather than in the city center. The isolated places are very resort-ey and also serve food and rent motorbikes (also usually providing free bikes and kayaks). Isolated places are much more fun, peaceful, and give you that beautiful Ninh Binh vibe. They can also be more social since everyone is stuck around at breakfast and dinner instead of going out. At night, you might chat up on some strangers for a drink and enjoy the beautiful views together.

Hostels:

• Trang An River View Homestay – amazing view! Peaceful vibe. We stayed here and honestly, I think it was the best decision ever. The surrounding nature is super beautiful, and also their vibe is much more peaceful than the nextdoor neighbors “Trang An For Your Homestay”. But we were still able to walk onto their bridge and island connect regardless. I highly recommend this spot without question to anyone and everyone staying in Ninh Binh. It was the highlight of our trip for me.
• Trang An For Your Homestay – amazing view, right next to and same view as ours. Their Google reviews are lower because of cleanliness and annoyingly loud karaoke parties at night. It’s truly annoying and ruins the peaceful vibe! They don’t do it every night so it’s a gamble when you go.
• Green Mountain Homestay – awesome vibe. Isolated and therefore everyone stays in for dinner and contributes to a more social vibe. But still located compared to a big city hostel. Without having tried all, I guess this is probably the fanciest and most social hostel in the area.
• Trang An Mountain House – beautiful, chill, helpful family staff. Great peaceful vibe, low on social atmosphere.
• Tam Coc Mountain Bungalow – beautiful, chill, restful home vibe. Low on social atmosphere if you wanted to meet people, quiet and people keep to themselves.
• Tam Coc Banana Bungalow – nice resort vibe, great free breakfast.
• Banana Tree Hostel – kind of a party hostel but not cozy, seems everyone’s locked in their groups. I guess it depends on the groups you run into.

Neighborhoods & Walking areas:

• Around your stay – assuming you picked a cool resorty spot in nature (like I suggested), hanging around your place in the morning and late afternoons and nights are the most fun.
• Trang An center & boat area:
  • Do the boat tour, takes 2.5-3 hours depending on if you do all the stops (sometimes ppl get tired in the evenings and seen enough) and also if you help with the paddling. They have 3 options, and I hear #1 is the worst and #2 and #3 are better. We did #2 and loved it, will do #3 next time. You can also look up the name of the King Kong movie filming location…we had it on #2 but not sure if it’s also on the others.
  • The Trang An tour is run by an official government organization and everything is professional. You can always hang around the museum and water area, to eat and take photos, etc. It’s nice to hangout if you have extra time.
  • Go early enough so it doesn’t get dark near the end, or your tour gets cut short. Another tip to make sure you see everything is don’t take too long taking photos on each stop.
• Tam Coc center & boat area – this one seems less official, but still pretty. Boat tour is only 1.5hrs I think and also with lots of annoying sellers colluding together with the boat paddlers to get your money.
• Hang Mua Viewpoint and Tuyet Tinh Coc – nice areas to walk around, relax, and take beautiful photos. Hang Mua isn’t just the mountain viewpoint, you can hang at the cafe and water areas inside. Or also walk around the wooden planks on the outside (with the views of the mountains and water). Tuyet Tinh Coc is a nice concrete walk path around a lake.

All of these are suitable hangout spots and have more to offer than just the primary activity they advertise.

Activities to do:

• Hang Mua Cave & Viewpoint**:
  • Very first thing you must do in NB, and is also where shuttle transfers from other cities drop you off. Natural landscape area, big rock mountains (one of them carved like a dragon) surrounded by lotus fields in water and jungle greenery. Many pretty decorated areas, restaurants and shops, beautiful photo ops. Easy 2hr stop with low-entry cost.
  • Lying Dragon Mountain – go straight to this after you enter, skipping past all photo-op distractions along the way. It’s a rock mountain carved like a dragon with really steep stairs going up. Only 15min climb, with amazing views at the top. Halfway up, you see LEFT PATH and RIGHT PATH option…pick the left one! It goes higher up and has better views, you see the postcard Tam Coc river view in the back and big lotus fields in the front (along with other mountain path in the view making for nicer photos).
  • Caves – Tiger Cave is a waste of time. Just a dark little underground hole at base of dragon mountain. Mua Cave is better, since you walk past beautiful pond and flowers, then through a hole in the mountain to reach back area with wild vegetation. 5-10min relaxing walk.
  • Lotus fields (water area) – water area with curved wooden platforms throughout. You saw it when walking into Hang Mua and also from top of dragon mountain. During May-Jul, water is filled with lotus flowers. Regardless, there are so many incredible photo ops here. So much fun to wander around, relax and enjoy the scenery. Try to save time for the boat ride!
• Boat ride**:
  • If Hang Mua is #1 tourist thing in Ninh Binh, then boat ride is #2. Ninh Binh has 2 famous tourist boat rides. They might sound and look similar in photos…both are you sitting on old-fashion rowboat paddled by a local down a river with views of water, mountains, caves, temples, and birds. But many ppl don’t have time for both…so they debate which is better, better views, more authentic, more peaceful, etc. Go before it’s too dark, no later than 2-3pm IMO.
  • Tam Coc Boat ride*:
    • About 1.5-2h ride depending on passenger weight and paddler rowing speed. River flows in long straight path, first passing local homestays along the water and boat vendors (selling souvenirs), then passing mountains and lotus fields. At the end, boat turns around and goes straight back. It’s the iconic travel agency photo of Ninh Binh with boats passing through the yellow lotus fields surrounded by mountains and jungle greenery.
    • Locals may say Tam Coc boats are more authentic…because rowers paddle with their feet (instead of hands), has less people, less developed in touristy way, and overall less touristy. View is more grand since the water flows in straight path down a wide middle space (surrounded by colorful flowers in lotus season) with mountains on the sides. More majestic wide view of the landscape.
    • However, my experience was totally opposite. Tam Coc feels like a touristy boat tour in the middle of town…busiest Tam Coc town area with restaurants, shops, homestay, noise. At beginning and end of your boat tour, vendors in their own boats float out to you to sell souvenirs and photos, or push you to buy drinks/snacks for your rower. Your rower may be pushy for a tip as well.
    • Because the water flows in a straight path, you see many boats in every photo. Rowers seem to be racing to finish the tour faster, often getting close to other boats (and arguing with other rowers). Boats are smaller and made of flimsy metal adding slight discomfort to every movement…echoing clank sounds, feels more likely to tip over (although it doesn’t happen), or disrupting your camera with sudden tugs. Smaller boats only hold 2-3ppl, so you have split-up groups yelling out to take photos of each other. Wide view might not capture well on photos because mountains are farther and smaller.
    • The only worthy value of the Tam Coc boats is during lotus season May-Jul when the flowers bloom. Outside of lotus season, Trang An boats is far better experience (more nature and peace with fewer people). Tam Coc boats are also unique because of locals rowing with their feet (instead of hands), but you can see that standing from the boat point without having to get in the water.
  • Trang An Boat ride**:
    • About 3hr ride depending if you do all the stops, and if you help paddling. Three route options to choose (each with different and overlapping stops): people say #2 is the best, #3 is second, and #1 is last. With #2 and #3 being about equal. I chose #2, it was amazing and also has the path where the King Kong movie was filmed.
    • Best boat ride in NB by far. Yes there’s more people, more boats, more routes, more stops, more things to see…but it’s actually much more beautiful and peaceful. The area looks like a professionally-developed tourist destination in nature. Nice boats and shops, staffed by locals in traditional-style uniform (instead of street clothes). Feels like walking through a park with beautiful signboards/photo-plaques instead of a busy boat point in town with pushy vendors screaming all around the water.
    • Boats are bigger and more stable, holds 4-5 ppl so there’s less shouting from split-up groups, you can turn your body more to enjoy views without fear of tipping the boat. The water flows in more natural way, curving around the rocks so you have more variety of views (rocks up close vs far away). More turns in the water also means fewer boats around and much easier to take photos without other boats in background, rowers go slower and more carefully. Everything feels more peaceful, people behave more peacefully, and more chance to see birds.
    • Trang An boats make several stops, where you get off and see temples or walk around different angles of the landscape. Many more beautiful photo-ops of nature. Also a good rest for your rower. Tam Coc boat tour has stops too but not many and not as nice (just some caves), and also our boat didn’t make any stops (neither did our other group’s boat). You don’t get harassed by boat vendors. Our rower didn’t ask for a tip either but we gave some because she worked hard to paddle 5 people.
• Bai Dinh Pagoda* – like a big nature theme park of religious structures, including biggest pagoda in southeast Asia, beautiful architecture and panoramic viewpoints. Good activity for rainy days. We bought the cheapest ticket that included electric car shuttles (to take you around). And saw all main stuff within 1.5-2hr. To save time, don’t get a guide…just walk straight to the 2 main things (big pagoda and stupa). Then take photos on your way out. Otherwise, you’ll blow much more time. I suggest climb the stupa first so you can look down and contextually decide what things you want to see, and the order.
• Tuyet Tinh Coc* – concrete walkway around pretty lake surrounded by rocky mountains, with a temple and shops. Fish and boats in the water, colorful lanterns on the trees, peaceful traditional music coming out of the speakers. Overall very picturesque. Easy 30-45min relaxing walk around the lake and take nice photos (many wedding photos here), but not historically important if you don’t have time for it. I recommend this as easier alternative if you don’t have time/energy for Bai Dinh Pagoda.
• Motorbike through Ninh Binh* – so easy. Just bike around the nature and through the fields! Easy enough to do if you’re not staying in the town center. Nature is everywhere and all around you! Although some areas may be explored with a bicycle, I highly recommend motorbike. It’s so much faster (to see more areas) and can get through big mud patches that a bicycle can’t. Explore my favorite route.
  • Walk around your area – chances are you’ve biked past many awesome places to hang out. You can simply walk around Ninh Binh and take in all the nature and local life. It’s so beautiful and peaceful.
• Hoa Lu old town** – Naturally…you will be here at night to eat.
  • Chua Ky Lan & Thap Chua Bac temples – easily seen in Trang An town center. They are lit up at night and look pretty.
• Hoa Lu Ancient Capital – Vietnam’s old capital from 968-1009, with temples and old architectural buildings within walls surrounded by greenery and water landscapes. Nice place but I heard you can skip compared to Hue Historic City (aka “Hue Ancient Capital”). The area outside was nice enough for photos and wandering around anyway.
• Bich Dong Pagoda – total waste of time that should go to other tourist stops. Unimpressive temple, unimpressive cave, requires climbing stairs but there’s no nice view from top. SKIP! Btw: temple parking is free, but many scammers outside try to make you pay for it. Ignore them and don’t let them bully you or tell you where to park, etc.
• Parks:
  • Nice experience, but not essential to the Ninh Binh experience. Do these if you have more time.
  • Van Long Nature Preserve – it’s another boat ride (but only 1hr) and not as beautiful as Trang An. You’ll also experience pushey sellers here. The main selling point here is the wildlife and many people are disappointed when they don’t see the endangered langur monkeys or that they see fewer birds here than in Trang An. People will tell you to see this last, only if you have extra time.
  • Cuc Phuong National Park – sounds like a long day (of hiking) to spend here so I didn’t do it. Preferring to save time for other stuff.
  • Thuy Nam Bird Valley – yet another boat ride through a manicured garden, caves, and bird area and lots of manmade Instagrammy photo ops. Very peaceful and surprisingly beautiful, more popular with national tourists than foreigners. You’ll be disappointed if you came here only for the birds.

Don’t feel pressured like you have to do everything. If you’re short on time, do the Hang Mua viewpoint and one of the boat rides and that’s enough. If you got more extra time, you can visit the Bai Dinh pagoda and Tuyet Tinh Coc. Extra time, I would rather hang around the fields, walking around and taking photos. It’s so much fun and beautiful!

Restaurants & Cafes:

• Usually you eat at your place (where you stay) or at the tourist points above.

Bars & Clubs:

• Sure you, can find some bars in Hoa Lu old town or Tam Coc boat area, But this isn’t the place for that stuff. Have drinks at your river resort place, sitting with nature (and company if you have any).

Miscellaneous tips:

• Transportation – you’ll need either motorbike or taxi/rideshare. Using a bicycle is fine to explore around your area but many tourist things are further out from you. Motorbike is the most convenient to stop and go as you please. Don’t worry about the danger, the roads are totally empty so you can ride as slowly as you need. Ninh Binh is very remote, I didn’t see public buses or even enough people to have public buses.

Itineraries:

• DAY 1 – arrive and rest. Explore the area around your accommodation. Or if you’re staying in the city or your accommodation area is boring, you can go to into Trang An town center and see Chua Ky Lan & Thap Chua Bac temples (they’re lit up at night). Then eat in town or at your accommodation.
• DAY 2 – Hang Mua Cave and then boat ride at either Trang An or Tam Coc. I feel Trang An is better. Depending how early you start your day, you might also be able to squeeze in Bai Dinh Pagoda or Tuyet Tinh Coc.
• DAY 3 – Bai Dinh Pagoda and then Tuyet Tinh Coc if you have time. Ride around the nature in your area and take pictures of local life.
• DAY 4 – one of the bigger parks like Van Long Nature Preserve or Cuc Phuong National Park.

The main 4 things to see:

• Hang Mua Cave – must see
• Trang An river boat tour
• Bai Dinh Pagoda (2hrs) and/or Tuyet Tinh Coc (45mins) depending on your time
• Hoa Lu Old Town
• extra time, you do the parks

Everything else is either similar but not as pretty, not as unique, or not as important. Don’t let tours try to fool you into thinking there’s so many things. These are the most important and where you should spend your time.

Nearby towns:

• Ha Long Bay** (2hr bus) – probably Vietnam’s #1 tourist destination. Big bay with forested rock islands spread across picturesque turquoise waters. Can experience as a cruise boat tour, or stay on the island and use small private boats to hop around. Getting here requires bus to Haiphong ferry point where take a boat to your island.
• Hanoi** (2hr bus) – major city and definitely worth seeing. Main city of the north with many tourist activities and cultural destinations.

Unfiltered notes:

• Trang An or Tam Coc? I did both so you don’t have to – Danitza Yanez