Astana – quick travel guide

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Capital city with modern architecture, government buildings, new apartments, and huge open squares with space, cooler fresher air (than Almaty).

Just about everyone in Astana will tell you that you should go visit Almaty because it’s cooler, it more green, has more nature, more culture, more history, more tourist things, and just overall better than Astana in every way. You might also hear claims that Astana people are nicer and more down to earth compared to Almaty people. And also that Astana people “love sky”. Since there’s a whole lot of that. It seems people only come to Astana for school, work, or career. Outside of that, they’d much prefer a life in Almaty.

I’ve been to both cities and appreciate both. Astana stood out for me by its architecture. I’m not talking about the many new modern apartment buildings constantly in development throughout the city. I’m talking about the gold and teal colored ones in the government area. Other than that, Astana stands out with its large city of flat ground and open air where you can see lots of sky and feel cooler/colder fresh air blow around you all day long. This is distinct from Almaty which is kind of like a city in the mountains where the valley traps all the hot air, humidity, and clouds.

All of Astana could be seen in 2-3 days. But you really could get a feel of it (and nice photos) within 1 day, 2 tops. Generally if you’re short on time, everybody (including Astana people themselves) will beg you to go to Almaty instead.

Where to stay:

  • Esil District (Baiterek) – this is the main busy strip from the Baiterek Tower to the Khan Shatyr shopping mall. Many tourist sites, green spaces, shops, restaurants, bars, etc. Picturesque and fun to walk. Anywhere near (not necessarily on) this strip is ideal. The north side of the strip is cooler IMO, more shops and things. But I imagine the south would be fine as well. If you’re short on time or first-time tourist and don’t know what you’re doing, this is the #1 choice.
  • Botanical Garden – another nice area with a nice big park (with green space and water) next to it. Also shops, restaurants, bars, and tourist sites nearby. The most tourist part would be the area next to the park from Mangelik El Arc of Triump down past the Astana Ballet and to the big round EXPO building. This area is also not far off from the Esil District main strip, either. This is probably the most popular area for those who stay in Astana a longer time. You can enjoy both city and nature in the same afternoon.
  • Atyrau bridge – this would be another very nice and local area, vibrant with many shops and restaurants, also green spaces and the nice bridge nearby.

All in all, you’re choosing where you think you’ll spend most of your time. Do you want something walkable close to many things? Do you want to be near the park for running and enjoying more open area? Or do you want to be near the water? Astana traffic can be bad as well, do you need to go to other areas often?

Hostels:

  • haven’t tried any but read great reviews

Neighborhoods & Walking areas:

  • Baitarek Tower (east) – walk east from the Baitarek, passing the cool government buildings and Presidential Palace to the water. Some areas may be off limits and you have to go around, the guards will direct you. Lots of great architectural photos to take here.
  • Baiterek (west) – walk west from Baiterek, through Lover’s Park and finishing at the Khan Shatyr (shopping mall). Go inside for food if you’re hungry.
  • Botanical Garden – I would start my day at the Arc Triump, then walk through the garden down to the EXPO building. The Grand Mosque is 38mins walk south of the EXPO or short car ride if you got extra time to see more things. But personally, I would start my morning off with the Grand Mosque and then go back up (via car).
  • Central Park & Atyrau Bridge – I would start my day at the west side of the Atyrau Bridge, crossing the bridge to the east side. The walk NW along the bank till you reach the pedestrian bridge and cross it back to explore the Astana Central Park, stopping and resting and eating as you feel like.
  • East Bank – explore the national museum and Presidential Park.

Activities to do:

  • Astana Ballet, Astana Opera – my friend took me to see a show at the Astana Ballet Theater and I absolutely loved it. Great show and really high production value. Lots of details and cultural outfits, songs, dances, etc. Highly highly recommended.
  • Buildings & architecture:
    • Baiterek Tower – the tower is nice but also the gold-window government buildings nearby and the Presidential Palace. Walk around the tower to the palace and you’ll see it all.
    • Mangilik El Triumphal Arch – Astana’s Arc of Triumph. Come and take a photo at day or night. During some daytime hours, you can pay to go up inside of it.
    • Atyrau Bridge – nice bridge and the surrounding water banks. Also the street sellers in the old-style tents and the Astana Central Park nearby.
    • Khan Shatyr shopping mall – cool tent structure. Also the nice copper-color buildings nearby.
    • Mosques – Hazrat Sultan Mosque is the best one IMO (prettiest inside and out). Grand Mosque is biggest but very modern and feels touristic, its dark hallways with the columns make some nice photo ops. Nur Astana Mosque is nothing special, not as pretty or picturesque like the others. Each mosque can be seen within 30-40mins.
    • Astana Opera – nice building, but not so unique compared to typical western Europe.
    • Sarayshyq 5 – cool blue-green apartment buildings along this address, come see for yourself.
    • EXPO – interesting building outside and inside, but not historically important or anything. Looks like a giant big ball with lights, common tourist photo (but not essential) in case you wondered where it was.
    • Triumph of Astana – apartment buildings with uncanny resemblance to Moscow State University.
  • Parks, gardens, green spaces:
    • Botanical Garden – nice big park with views of pond, and also nearby the Astana’s Triumph Arc.
    • Central Park – nice park by the water and Atyrau Bridge, also has a little amusement park inside it with rides and games (good for kids). Big upside-down house.
    • Lover’s Park – small park across from the mall, and has views of historic Astana statues and monuments.
  • Bridges & water-points:
    • Atyrau Bridge – nice bridge with modern design, good for pictures. Nice area around it is also busy day and night.
  • Arts & museums – National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan, still haven’t done it yet but heard great things…beautiful and lots to see about Kazahk history.
  • Shopping – Astana has many big malls with interesting building shapes, like a big tent or pyramid or modern building.
    • Keuren – not the newest or fanciest but has the most heart and soul since it features locally-made Kazakh shops and artisans. Also lots of paintings and wall murals depicting Kazakh history and culture. Located right on the main strip.
    • Khan Shatyr – you’ll notice its cool tent shape from far away. It’s a standard mall with decent range of shops and restaurants, and artificial beach on the roof (Sky Beach Club).
    • Mega Silk Way – big mall with many shops and restaurants, and an ice-skating rink!
  • Sunset views – probably best seen from your sky-rise apartment balcony. Or you could go to the Botanical Garden.

Restaurants & Cafes:

  • DARK SIDE BAR – great food and drinks, and bar/music vibe. A recommended place to dine in the evening for a hip vibe. Reservation recommended if you have a group. Local favorite.
  • Qazaq Gourmet – high end fancy restaurant with incredible decor and amazing food! I had the horse rib and loved it. I feel I would probably love everything here. Locals may tell you this place is overrated (probably because of the price), but I found it amazing as a foreigner.
  • Shoreditch – awesome modern restaurant with great food and drinks. We also had shisha (hookah) here as well. Local favorite.
  • Big Apple Coffee Shop – nice solid coffee shop for food and drinks.
  • La Creme (cafe & waffles) – cutesy girly decor, nice drinks and food.
  • Pate – by the same owner as La Creme. Very delicious bakery and quiche.
  • Golpas – nice restaurant and bar. Very cozy seating, also has TV playing sports but still elegant atmosphere.
  • Ali Baba – tourist place with tourist seating (color tents with quilts) and tourist atmosphere (fun photos). Mediocre food and very touristy. Not a bad stop if you’re already in the area walking around. Maybe sit in the tent and eat something light and have tea. Save your appetite for a better restaurant.
  • LOYO – great classy restaurant with delicious food. Highly recommended to try besbarmak horse meat here, but everything else is good too. I don’t know why it’s only rated 4.1 on GoogleMaps, it’s definitely a 4.5-star place for me. WIFI works great.
  • Late-night:
    • Coffee Boom – chain cafe with good food, drinks, service, big & comfy seating. Classic casual late night place that’s always full but somehow manages enough seating for large groups.
    • Sat – awesome 24/7 place.
    • Shaurma Food – 24/7 place with all kinds of food (burger pizza pasta soup etc), and working WIFI.

Bars & Clubs:

  • DARK SIDE BAR – cool restaurant bar and can become like a club depending which night you go.
  • 6/45 Restobar – nice upscale club, good drinks and shisha. The morality police comes late at 4am to stop people from making out and dancing. Says closed on GoogleMaps and reviews, but I was literally here in Oct 2023 and totally open and happening.

Miscellaneous tips:

  • General travel tips for Kazahkstan.
  • 2GIS – much better than Google Maps.
  • Rideshare – Uber or Yandex Taxi.
  • Mobile operators – Kcell, Tele2, Beeline. I tried both Tele2 & Beeline. And they mostly worked fine.

Recommended Itinerary:

  • HALF DAY – walk east from Baitarek Tower (passing government buildings) to presidential palace. Then walk west to and through Lover’s Park until you’re across the street from Khan Shatyr mall (tent building). Then eat at Shoreditch or Dark Side Bar, and you’re done. If extra energy at night, go to Atyrau Bridge.
  • 1-DAY – walk east from Baitarek Tower (passing government buildings) to presidential palace. Then walk west to La Creme and eat brunch. Continue walk through Lover’s Park until you’re across the street from Khan Shatyr mall (tent building). Take taxi to west side of Atyrau Bridge, cross the bridge then walk northwest along water bank and cross pedestrian bridge south back into Astana Central Park. Walk through the park and then eat dinner at Shoreditch or Dark Side Bar. If extra energy at night, visit Arc Triumph for a quick photo op.
  • 2-DAY –
  • 3-DAY –

Nearby towns:

  • Konaev – nearby waterside town

Unfiltered notes:

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